The Biltmore Estate Kind of Rules…

Okay. For those in need of a refresher (or a fresher, for that matter), the Biltmore Estate encompasses 4,000 acres adjacent to Asheville, NC.  It is the site of America’s largest home, commissioned by George Vanderbilt and built in the 1890s.  The house is not only massive, but was very progressive for its time, employing the latest advances including electricity and running water. The dining hall and grand staircase are marvelous, and the two-story library is simply breathtaking.

We didn’t make for the home straightaway. Instead, we began the day yesterday with a tour of the grounds via segways. Yes, I had concerns about looking the dork.  After riding one, I still do. You wouldn’t catch me dead on one anywhere near a major urban center. But for touring the grounds of a 4,000 acre estate, or similar, it makes a lot of sense. And it’s an absolute blast.

        

Last night we went on a candlelight tour of the house itself. In terms of awe-inspiring interior spaces, the Biltmore is in a league with St. Peter’s in Rome and the Doge’s Palace in Venice. It is without doubt the grandest indoor space I have ever seen on this continent. Alas, no pictures are allowed inside. Which is stupid, in my opinion. How many potential tourists stay away every year, unconvinced by their friends’ assurances?

This morning we went back. Jamie wanted to do the audio tour again (we did this when we were here in 2006). I took the opportunity to wander the grounds, which I hadn’t done last time. And wow, am I glad I did! Designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (who also did Central Park), the outdoor space surrounding the main house is a thing of wonder. In some parts, it is perfectly manicured in an exact replica of an English garden. In others, trees are planted with almost perfect randomness, giving the illusion of wilderness. I was amazed at the attention paid to proportions and sightlines. The Biltmore Estate is landscape architecture at its absolute finest. Here are a sampling of images. Head over to my Flickr page (see right) for more.

Back in Asheville

Today’s leg of the drive took us across the length of Tennessee. You might call it a scenic tour of the Volunteer State’s major cities (excepting Chattanooga and it’s choo-choo). We passed through Memphis, Nashville, and Knoxville, with some Dickson and Centerville thrown in for good measure.

One of the highlights was passing by Sparta (“This is madness!”), which, sadly, was only a few miles shy of being Exit 300 along I-40. The other would have been the route through the Smoky Mountains, but alas, night comes early this time of year, and we transited the mountains in darkness. With the semi-trucks and their abundance of marker lights, it was reminiscent of a bizarre, mobile Trail of Lights.

Tomorrow we’re sleeping in, then braving the cold (and it is COLD here right now) and taking a Segway Tour of the Biltmore Estate. I figure I may as well get used to surrendering my dignity, what with fatherhood impending and all. And hey – at least they are OFFROAD segways.

 

 If you’re going to get onto one of the ridiculous contraptions, might as well go all-out, right? And my eyes must be going, because I can’t tell…but is that a dude in the back in the black and pink jacket?

After Jamie and I one-up the president and stay on our gyroscopically-stabilized two-wheeled transports, we’ll be eating at the Biltmore Bistro and then taking a candlelight tour of the Biltmore itself. Sadly, no cameras allowed.

Greetings from Nesbit, Mississippi…

From where?

Nesbit is in the extreme, far northwestern corner of Mississippi. For all intents and purposes, it’s part of Memphis.

We’re presently at the Bonne Terre Country Inn, a gorgeous place just far enough off the beaten path to feel very quiet and secluded.

In a few moment’s we’re off to eat breakfast, and then it’s back on the road. Today we’ll be shooting straight across Tennessee, over the Appalachians, and into Asheville. Personally, I’m anticipating a little more scenery (and cold) than was experience in East Texas and Arkansas.

Road Trip, The Sequel

I hate airports.  I hate security lines and baggage claims.  I hate the boarding and deplaning process.  I hate airplane seating, the lack of hip, shoulder, and leg room.  Come to think of it, I hate just about every part of flying except for the actual flying part.  Which, of course, is the part of flying that the wife hates.

Last year, rather than confronting our hatred yet again, we decided to eschew the whole flying thing and instead took a road trip to Washington D.C. and back, stopping in a number of cities and seeing a number of sights, from the Arby’s in Birmingham to Mount Vernon, various Smithsonian museums, the fabulous Biltmore, and my old stopping grounds in and around Nashville.

We had such a great time that, when we got around to planning this year’s vacation, we decided to stick with the road trip format.  Only this year, instead of heading east, we’re heading west.  And instead of taking the Mustang, we’ll be taking the Mini.

At the end of April, we will be setting off for Colorado Springs.  We had hoped to go in August, and avoid the worst of the Texas heat, but alas, everyone else must have the same idea, because prices for everything in Colorado pretty much double come the first weekend in May.  So, April it is!

Jamie, acting as something of a master of ceremonies, already has a whole list of activities planned, laid out, and ready to go.  Apart from the numerous meals which you care nothing about, we’re on tap for a ride up Pike’s Peak on the cog rail, a day of fly fishing, and a leisurely and scenic train ride through the Royal Gorge.  From there, our interests diverge.  The wife will be treating herself to facials, massages, and whatnot, while I plan to take a hike.  Literally.

After the hectic year we’ve had thus far, we’re both looking quite forward to a few days away.  Keep an eye out for pictures and posts from the road.

Back Home

Jamie and I finally got back to Austin last night a little after midnight.  Thank goodness I insisted on having Sunday to rest before returning t o work!

Look for a nice, big overview post sometime soon.  And thanks to all of you who provided your comments.

Road Trip Day 9 – Long Road Home

This is it, the last day of our road trip, and it is going to be a long, gruelling one.

We have to drive through Arkansas (and cover a distance of about 900 miles in one go…but driving through Arkansas…gives me shivers)

Tail of the Dragon!

In a change of plans for today’s route, Jamie and I have decided to take the long way from Asheville to Nashville. 

Now, instead of going north of the Smokey Mountains, directly to interstate, we will be going south, making our way to the semi-legendary Highway 129, also known as the Tail of the Dragon.  It has something like 300-plus turns over an eleven mile run, and has been called the closest thing that North America has to Germany’s famed Nurburgring.

Mini enthusiasts host an event there every year called, creatively, Minis on the Dragon.  Lotus, Corvette, Ducati, and other enthusiasts groups host similar events.

And today, we’re going to be driving this road.  I’m jazzed, and Jamie is rolling her eyes.

Road Trip Day 8 – Old Stomping Grounds

After a morning of tours and whatnot at the Biltmore, Jamie and I are setting a course west, across the Smoky Mountains, and into Tennessee.  Our destination – Nashville.  Seeing that I lived there for two years while attending Vanderbilt, I figure this is a good chance to both revisit some parts of the city that I missed ,and to show the wife around the old stomping grounds.

Update from Lexington

I’m writing this from Lexington.  It is a cool morning here, in the 70s, and we are about to hit the road for Asheville, NC.  The trip has been great so far, better than either of us hoped.  Keep checking out the pictures, and I’ll provide a recap upon our return to Austin.

Road Trip Day 7 – Three States in Under Four Hours

Today we are heading from Lexington, VA to Asheville, NC in what promises to be one of the more scenic drives of the entire trip.  In our four and a half hours on the road, we will be driving through hills, mountains, and three states. 

And at journey’s end, we will get to gape in awe at the Biltmore Estate, which is, inexplicably in this age of wretched excess, somehow still the nation’s largest home.  Come on, Diddy, get with it!  Or how about you, Bill Gates?